Does dry lining help prevent condensation?

Yes — but only as part of a system, and only when the diagnosis is right. The mechanism is straightforward: condensation forms when warm moist air hits a cold surface below the dew point. In an uninsulated Victorian solid 9-inch brick wall in Bearsted, Loose, or Maidstone central, the internal wall surface in winter sits around 8–12°C — well below the dew point of typical indoor air at 21°C, so moisture condenses on the wall, runs down, and feeds the black mould you see in the corners.

Insulated plasterboard fixes the temperature side of that equation:

• 50mm PIR-backed plasterboard lifts the internal surface temperature by roughly 8–10°C
• 80mm PIR-backed plasterboard lifts it by roughly 12–14°C
• Either way, the new internal surface sits above the dew point in normal winter conditions, and condensation stops

What you also need (often missed):

• A continuous vapour-control layer on the warm side of the insulation — without it, water vapour migrates through the board, hits the cold original brick, and condenses inside the wall cavity where you cannot see or dry it
• Background ventilation — trickle vents in windows or a positive input ventilation (PIV) unit. Seal a 1900 terrace airtight and you swap wall condensation for window condensation and stale-air health issues
• Adequate extract in kitchens and bathrooms — Part F rates are 15 l/s for a bathroom, 30 l/s for a kitchen, 60 l/s for a utility room

ECO4 and GBIS funding (subject to current eligibility — verify before promising clients a funded job) can subsidise this work for low-income and EPC E/G-rated households in Maidstone. The drylining element is straightforward; the funding application paperwork is the slow bit.